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Hey bikers and runners. Here’s a chance to do both or just one!
Chelsea is sponsoring the 1st Annual Historic Route 66 Run and Bike Ride Saturday, June 28. Runners can choose a 7:30 a.m. 5km run or an 8 a.m. 1-Mile Fun Run. Bikers can choose a 10-Mile 9:00 a.m. ride or a 9:30 30-Mile ride. For more info or to register, call 918-789-3636. You can also send the standard info via email to Nanette Holloway at chelseart66runandride@msn.com.
I’m not sure where the event stages, but I bet Nanette can tell you.
Other upcoming events include Tour de Payne in Stillwater on July 4th. For more info go to:
And then, I heard about this one from Dennis on FreeWheel. He’ll be there with his famous reststop, and it’s worth going to this one just for Dennis’s reststop!
Tornado Alley 101 in Joplin sounds like fun on July 12.
Keep riding between the rain drops…at least the wind isn’t blowing 50 mph!
One week, 421.6 miles and 13,735 feet of total ascent later, I finished the 30th Annual Oklahoma FreeWheel Bicycle Tour with 900 of my new best friends. We started on June 8 in Marietta, OK and finished today in Caldwell, KS. The tour showed off some of the most scenic parts of the state. I was prepared for seeing some great sights, but I wasn’t prepared for the impact of the FreeWheel experience.
When we moved to Oklahoma in 1979, FreeWheel was in its second year. I really wanted to ride the Century day and I trained for it, but then I chickened out. And then “life happens,” kids, jobs and family responsibilities don’t allow for a person to take a week out of their life to ride a bike across Oklahoma.
But this was THE year. And when I sent in the registration in April, I was both excited and scared…but I was committed.
The Katy Trail ride two weeks prior helped me prepare for the time in the saddle, so my butt had developed some great calouses. But FreeWheel is different. I’ve was told by veterans of the ride that there are times during the ride I’d definitely want to quit. And that was true! So before the ride I wondered what would keep me going. What’s the fun in misery? Why would someone ride hours in the pouring rain, drenched, shivering and wrinkled like a prune? And the next day, get up and do it again only to be faced with hills that make a cyclists legs ache just to look at them, not to mention the 30mph crosswind that threatens to blow cyclists totally off the road.
Admittedly, not giving in to the the physical tests presented by cycling does have something to do with possessing a stubborn streak. Most cyclists have it. Tell them they can’t ride in the pouring rain for four hours, and by golly, they’re going to show you it can be done. However, there’s more to it than that. Cycling is a “brotherhood.” On the days I rode “alone,” I always had the support of those around me, and I supported them. Cycling doesn’t discriminate based on gender, age, economic status or ability or physical appearance. Sure, some folks have really fancy bikes, and some cycle faster than others, and girls and guys do fill out the spandex differently, But at the end of the day’s ride, we all get there just the same. Most of us sleep in a tent or on an air mattress in “indoor camping.” We all eat in the same places, shower in the same place, and as the sun sets, and we are all pleasantly exhausted from the day, we enjoy the same evening sky. We swap stories of the day’s ride and speculate on the next day. We share sunscreen, bike tools, band-aids, energy bars, Advil and laughter. We come from all walks of life, but during FreeWheel week, what we do in our non-cycling life doesn’t matter. We introduce ourselves only by our first names and our towns. That’s all that matters. And that information alone is enough to create a friendship. Despite the hard days, everyone smiles at each other. Everyone trusts each other to help each other out.
FreeWheel bonds total strangers together and reunites those who have done it year after year in a way that is totally unexplanable to anyone who hasn’t experienced it. One rider described it as a “giant mobile annual family reunion, with bikes, only you pick your family.” That’s pretty accurate.
On day one, I knew three people who would be doing FreeWheel. David, from Chouteau that I met at Flower Power in Muskogee in April and Randy and Sherrie that I shared a porch with during a bad storm during Tulsa Tough. But on day one, I met Greg from Norman, Ernie and Glenn, Barbara from Wichita. And the list grew from there. Monday’s 5-inch rain deluge introduced me to Darryl from Houston, Keith from Edmond and Michelle from Muskogee because we shared a small corner of the Seminole Municipal Building that night. When you sleep in very close quarters, you can’t help but become good friends. I forgive Darryl because he snores.
I enjoyed meeting Mary Ellen and Bill from Tulsa. We shared dinner in Perry. And Ken from Burkburnett, TX helped me pitch my tent in a 25mph wind in Drumright. I enjoyed the afternoon in Henryetta talking to Tracy from Springfield, MO. Jerry needed my help when he slipped his chain. We were great pals from Henryetta on. I gave him an extra tent stake and we went tent shopping, and he gave me a jersey that is too small for him. We shared a beer in the shade. And Bob from Tulsa helped me realize I can cycle a whole lot harder than I thought. He inspired me to dig a little deeper and press a little harder. And he pulled me into Tonkawa in a heck of a headwind. Brian from Goodland, KS told us some great stories about his experience with lightning and other cross state rides and Ron was a great concert buddy.
As we all said goodby today, we promised we’d see each other next year. I can’t imagine not going back, despite the wind and rain and hills. What I thought was a bike ride that I could cross off my “bucket list” of things to do and then move on was so much more. Hopefully I can keep that FreeWheel spirit with me until next year where I’ll see all my bicycling family again. And hopefully, I can persuade others to become a first-timer like I was this year.
Michelle and Keith joined me at the Finish Line in Caldwell, KS
Wednesday, May 21
Day 4 Start: North Jefferson MM 143 43 Miles on the Katy Map
End: McKitterick MM 100 (Hermann) 47.7 Miles logged
Thom fixed a terrific breakfast for us that included Belgian waffles and more delicious melon and strawberries. He really enjoys cooking and told us he has more than 20 menus, each with a letter designation. We sampled menu “U.”
After loading our bikes, Thom drove us the five minutes to the trail head. We thanked him for his hospitality, loaded up and bid Jefferson City goodbye.
Riders who travel east may find it a bit more difficult to find water stops on this part of the trail. We were glad we had all packed extra water, although the temperatures were moderate, the sky was bluebird blue and a very light breeze kept us cool. Perfect bike weather.
Several miles east of the North Jefferson trail head, riders on the trail and legislators at the Capitol (in the distance) are reminded that agriculture drives the Missouri economy.
The trail parallels Highway 94 for nearly the rest of the way. However, riders of the trail are never bothered by vehicular traffic unless they see a park ranger or Katy Trail State Park maintenance crews.
I did a double take when I rode past this truck parked just outside of Wainwright. This was the first for me, a “mobile tattoo unit.” Although you may not be able to see it, the truck advertises “private parties.”
Wainwright MM 137.6 offers no services. At one time it was a small railroad town. Now Main Street stops at a private drive.
Tebbetts MM 131 offers a convenience store on the west side of town, Missy’s Mart…”in a cow field near you” with very stale air inside, but we needed some supplies.
Jane cycles eastward after crossing Little Tavern Creek. The Corp of Discovery visited the Tavern Cave and Creek, named by French trappers for whatever reason, on May 23, 1804. Clark writes that they met some Osage women in this area. I must be Osage somehow because I really love this part of the trail.
One of the earliest businesses in Bluffton was the Bluffton Winery. Built in 1866, it thrived for several years, but fell victim to the “crash” in prices after the Civil War in 1871. Wineries became an important part of the Missouri economy early in its history for two main reasons. Good limestone rock under perfect soil makes for some great Norton and Cynthiana vines. Caves in the bluffs provided temperature control for early winemakers.
Between Bluffton and Rhineland, Jack took a break, or maybe a full-fledged nap, on the warm planks of the Quick Creek bridge. Now that’s a cycling oxymoron.
Rhineland MM 105 has been partially relocated and reborn since the 1993 flood. Most of the town was underwater during this flood, so the trail was moved, with most of the town. When the Katy Trail was initially proposed, not everyone was happy. Several folks are still not happy. Although the Rhinelanders are cordial, several signs on private property around Rhineland encourage riders not to stop or ask for help at their residences.
I thought this sign in Rhineland was more interesting. The trail goes by the football field, and they obviously have rules about coolers and refunds. Jane made sure she abided by the rules, although she did think she was due a refund. Off to the left of the white building, I found the city park restrooms. No trailhead exists in Rhineland.
McKittrick MM 100.8 is our jumping off place for the day on our way to accommodations across the river in Hermann. McKittrick is a six road town on the north side of the river. We weren’t feeling adventurous, so we didn’t scale the embankment west of the Highway 19 underpass tunnel and jump right on the highway to go to Hermann. Oh no…we toured beautiful downtown McKittrick and did it right which required dropping down in granny gear for a pretty good hill. After all that flat, I needed a good hill! My riding partners might have disagreed on that. The Highway 19 Bridge across the Missouri River is bike friendly with a separate lane and a divider from vehicular traffic. After an impromptu tour of Hermann, we found our accommodations for the evening.
Because six wineries are located in and around Hermann, and it is about an hour from St. Louis, Hermann has more than 40 B&Bs to choose from. It also boasts two huge celebrations a year that attract people for all over the U.S.: Maifest and Oktoberfest. Cyclists are wise to schedule extra time for Hermann as there are several historic places to visit on Market Street and on Main Street. Hermann was founded by the German Settlement Society of Philadelphia in 1836. Members of the community established a joint-stock company in an effort to retain German customs and traditions rather than abandon the ways of the “Fatherland” to become Americanized. They went so far as to advertise Hermann as the “German Athens of the West.” As a consequence, German traditions are in force today in this community, and wine making (fortunately!) is one tradition they have continued to embrace.
Most of the B&Bs cater to the “romantic get-away” rather than Katy Trail bikers, but we found comfortable lodging at Birk’s Gasthaus. This B&B is a restored mansion built in 1886 for the prosperous Herzog family. It changed hands between the time I made reservations and our arrival which caused some confusion regarding our reservations, and our rooms were not ready. However, the new proprietor, Elle, is planning to do some additional renovation and restoration which the house needs. She graciously did some laundry for us, made dinner reservations for us and was a cordial host. They also conduct Murder Mystery weekends.
Stone Hill Winery has been in business for 160 years. Their wines are excellent and the food at The Vintage Restaurant follows the German tradition. Bikers have excellent choice in establishments because that night we ran into the Warrensburg group and the Sierra Club group at the restaurant. We enjoyed sauerbraten, schweinshaxe and a terrific Hermannsberger red, thanks to the generosity of Jane’s mom and dad, Belle and Jack, who were following our progress via phone back in Oklahoma.
We hadn’t quite finished the wine from dinner, so our nice waitress packaged it for us to make it legal to carry it back to the B&B. As we walked the five blocks back, we started singing rounds and other songs we learned as kids. We even got some smiles from the neighbors. They must see cyclists wander back from Stone Hill with their conspicuous bag in hand frequently. We borrowed some glasses from Elle and enjoyed the rest of the wine on the porch. It was a great evening all the way around.
Thursday, May 22
Day 5 Start: Hermann (McKittrick MM 100.8) 37 Miles on Katy Map
End: Augusta MM 66 38.1 Actual Miles loged
We started our day with a great breakfast at Birk’s and enjoyed chatting with the other guests who included nurses who inspect and evaluate long-term care facilities for the state of Missouri and a mom and her two daughters from Nebraska on a get-away vacation. One of the great things about B&Bs is meeting new people!
I wish I could say the weather was as nice as the breakfast conversation. We donned our raingear before we headed out as a light mist was falling. In the two miles we traveled from Hermann to the trailhead it became apparent that today was going not going to be fun. We were going to pay for those gorgeous days we’d had up to this point.
The trail is very scenic in this area, but when it is raining and cold, one doesn’t pay much mind to nature. We passed through Case MM 96.9 and Gore MM 93.8, Bernheimer MM 89, none of which have restrooms or water. The farther we went toward Treloar 84.4, our next trailhead rest stop, the worse the rain came down. We saw the Elderhostel group sag wagon pick up their riders on Highway 94. We also heard a fair amount of thunder. We all wished we were Elderhosteling at that point.
Water resistant rain gear takes on a whole new meaning when the resistance breaks down. First upper legs and thighs get wet, next the feet, then the hands and gloves get soggy. Remember the “don’t touch the tent when it’s raining or it will leak” rule from the camping experiences? Same applies to cycling rain gear. The body parts in constant contact are the body parts that get wet. Depending on the wind, the back can get really wet. But today, our backs only got dirty because the wind shifted overnight and we encountered an east headwind. I lived in Missouri for 22 years and knew that an east wind is NOT a good sign.
Pedaling in rain tests a cyclist’s constitution, but when the ride isn’t supported, there’s really no choice but to keep going. When the Katy gets wet, she’s not a friendly trail. The normally pleasant surface because sloppy, soggy and sometimes downright slick. It takes more effort to pedal through the limestone slurry, especially when the bike has 20 extra pounds. When I was struggling, I was reminded several times of the persistence of the Corp of Discovery, as they paddled the river in the rain, sometimes 19 miles a day only to have very soggy accommodations at the end of the day. I had it so much easier than they did. I knew if we made it to Augusta, a warm shower and a soft, dry bed was waiting.
At one point Rebecca found this oasis of dry ground, the Riverfront Boat Club right next to the river. Even though the sign warned it was Private Property, we were not deterred in seeking a bit of dry shelter.
Rebecca models the Katy Trail attached to her clothes, bags and bike.
Jane was hoping to drip dry, but her efforts were not rewarded.
The stretch between Hermann to Treloar (16 miles) is the longest stretch without water or restroom on the trail. It seemed even longer that day for all of us.
Treloar MM 84.4 has restrooms and the Treloar Bar & Grill. We met the Elderhostel group here picking up additional riders. They had enjoyed lunch here. The owner had held a party the previous night for his daughter and her classmates who had just graduated from high school, and he tried to give us a helium balloon as a souvenir. We graciously declined.
On this day, Jack met with some physical difficulty. By the time we got to Treloar, he was shaking from the cold. Hot tea helped at the Treloar Bar and Grill, where the kind folks there offered to take him up the road, but just like the explorers of earlier days, he was determined to make it. And slowly but surely, he did make it to Augusta. However, he had to admit that for his physical safety, his ride was over. Suffering from the cold and wet, the toll of the headwind and some physical problems that had us all pretty worried, Jack packed it in. But the Elderhostel folks came to the rescue. And how it transpired was a lesson in the warmth and generosity of Small Town America and the Brotherhood of Bikers.
Jane was invited to a Sierra Club lecture given by Augusta historian, Dr. Anita Mallinckrodt that evening. Jane mentioned Jack’s situation, and Anita called her good friend, the Elderhostel tour leader, Don Lewis. She arranged to have Jack ride the Elderhostel sag the next day. Lo and behold, he made a new friend on the ride, a fellow physician from Billings, MT. According to Jack, they enthusiastically talked “shop” most of the day and also enjoyed a tour of Daniel Boone’s home. He had more stories to tell us the next evening. And I think Rebecca, Jane and I were a bit envious that he got to go on the tour.
The rain tried to let up for awhile after we left Treloar as we headed toward Peers MM 80.1 and it did stop for awhile, but the trail was sufficiently wet that the pedaling was still not easy.
Near Marthasville MM 77.7 I stopped to take a photo of the tracks left by bikers ahead of me and the daisies that bloom in abundance all along the trail. Most of the time it was raining too hard to remove the camera from its dry home in my handlebar bag. Marthasville has a full rest area, a cute town with B&B’s, places to eat and a conveniently located bank. We saw the storm clouds building behind us and thought better of hanging around.
As we approached Dutzow MM 74, we could hear the thunder behind us…and now we could see lightning. I hate lightning, but I hate it worse on a bike in an open area where I’m the highest point. So I pedaled faster. Jane and I caught up with the Warrensburg group at the Dutzow trailhead, and just in the nick of time. Not a minute after we arrived, the Missouri heavens opened and we shared our meager trailhead shelter with six other brave souls in the pouring rain. In Missouri parlance, we encountered a “toad strangler.”
The Warrensburg pedalers said that the Dutzow Deli & Restaurant which was just a parking lot away has great sandwiches and some really good German beer. Oh, I was so close, and yet so far away! For 20 minutes I thought about all the liquid refreshment possibilities in a distance so close I could hurl a bottle cap onto their very dry porch (with nice wicker furniture) while the sky gushed H2O. But when the rain stopped, we jumped on those bikes and headed for Augusta as fast as the east headwind would allow…which wasn’t very fast at all. Our average moving speed that day was slightly over 6 miles per hour. Pitiful!
We also passed the turnoff for the Blumenhof Winery. Again, the weather kept me from making a stop. Riders also pass by the Labadie Power Plant owned by Ameren.
Augusta MM 66 should have been called “Atlasta.” I was very glad to see the trail head. Everyone was behind me at this point as I had been trying to catch up to the Warrensburg group. I knew that there were some hills to the B&B and I wasn’t sure where it was exactly, so I ventured up a steep hill on Public Street. I think I actually called it something else and said something like, “This isn’t fair!” as I was climbing, but three blocks up a 1/1 hill and two blocks to the right, I found refuge. There was Augusta’s White House Restaurant where I found out about dinner possibilities. The man at the bar called Jan, who manages River Witch Cabin, and in a flash she came down and opened up her “wine room” for us. She welcomed us with complimentary cheese, crackers, Augusta Winery wine, water. When Jane made it in 10 minutes later, we must have been a sight. We were dirty and wet, but Jan didn’t seem to mind. She was great! And I was feeling better about life after wine and cheese. I love Small Town America.
The 1860 cabin we stayed in was actually two cabins joined together. They originally were located outside of Augusta, but they were moved into town and restored. Jan gave us the grand tour, made us feel at home, told us where to hose off our bikes and just generally treated us like family. We all agreed that our evening at the cabin was our favorite night on the road because it was so cozy. Note the “secure” bike parking to the left on the porch. No one even locks their doors in Augusta, according to Jan. The owner, Kathryn, also stopped by to chat. She heard we were coming and wanted our honest opinion of the accommodations. We were able to provide a glowing report. The cabin has two king beds and three double beds and could sleep 10 bikers. It is perfect Katy Trail destination.
Rebecca and I ate early at the White House Restaurant and were joined by Jane after she attended Anita’s lecture, which she enjoyed very much. Then the rest of the Sierra Club came in for dinner. The food and drink were great, and we definitely enjoyed the rest after a hard day. Rebecca took soup back to Jack, and it seemed to revive him. We spent the rest of the evening in our cabin’s living room, polishing off the wine, telling stories and enjoying the fact we all made it on a tough cycling day.
Friday, May 23
Day 6 Start: Augusta MM 29 Miles on the Katy Map
End: St. Charles MM 29 Miles logged.
Guests at the River Witch Cabins enjoy breakfast at the White House Restaurant, and it was supreme: stuffed French toast, eggs benedict, sausage, fruit.
No rain today, but clouds and plenty of that east headwind again. We were all glad that we had less than 30 miles left. Although I was happy that the trail end was at hand, I was also sad that the trip was soon to be completed. And we all noticed something very interesting. The closer we got to the “city,” the less friendly our fellow trail users were. Some of the folks we met headed west looked downright unhappy. As we reached the trail’s end, we also traveled back into reality. As Jane said two days after we got home, “Life was much simpler on the trail.”
Before bikers get to Matson, they pass this wonderfully water carved bluff. I got under the first tier of the bluff for scale. You can barely see me, it’s that BIG!
Matson MM 61 is a sleepy, but cute little town with a restroom at the trailhead. Trail users can visit the Daniel Boone Judgment Tree, or reasonable facsimile since the real thing is long gone. Daniel was a trusted frontiersman. So trusted, that he held “court” under a tree near this site to settle disputes that occurred among early settlers. Two trees later, you can still read about him, his family, and his importance in the settlement of the area.
Defiance MM 59. Defiance gets its name because it built a substantial railroad depot much to Matson’s opposition. And today it thrives with several places to eat. The Katy Bike Rental sells snacks across the footbridge.
From Weldon Springs MM 56 on to St. Charles, the terrain varies between primitive and populated.
There’s even a rather substantial swamp on the south side of the trail full of duck weed, ducks, blue herons and other evidence of wild life.
Plenty of places like this one provide trail users between Weldon Springs and St. Charles a place to rest. This is a very popular and highly traveled portion of the Katy as city dwellers seek some solace. A small cave behind the bench offers a home to critters to be sure.
Many of the benches have been placed in memoriam. This one for “Courtney Sweeney, a daughter, a sister and a friend.” And because of the chain beside the flowers, maybe a girl who loved bicycles.
This is the final “depot” rest stop/trailhead before St. Charles. In keeping with tradition on the rest of the trail, we decided to stop.
Between Green Bottom Road MM 45.7 and St. Charles we met some people from South Carolina. They were traveling the trail covering about 20 miles a day. We stopped to look at a white peacock, an animal I didn’t know existed. The stopped to look too and we chatted for awhile. We saw them again in St. Charles and congratulated them on finishing their journey.
Rebecca and Jane stop to look at the Page Street Bridge (Highway 364) that crosses the Missouri. A bike friendly trail leads up to the bridge for those who want to cross the Missouri one last time. Note the water level marks on the bridge support.
Although the trail still hugs the river here, it circles around the newly constructed St. Charles Family Arena and a sand plant. Big boats dredge the river from the plant as far up as the Page Street Bridge and offload the sand here for a concrete plant.
The concrete structure with the roof is where cyclists go under the sand conveyor belt.
Then the trail leads to the Ameristar Casino (yet another chance to donate to the State of Missouri) and for the final time, under I-70. From there, the end of the trail is in sight. St. Charles has built a wonderful riverside park with a very nice depot and band shell.
And here we are in St. Charles MM 39.5, six days and 240 miles later. We still liked each other, and we were still smiling. And we were talking about where we wanted to go next!
The grins got bigger when we treated ourselves to a celebratory lunch at the Little Hills Restaurant and Winery in historic downtown St. Charles where a bit of the bubbly was ordered and consumed. That evening we caught up with Jack and ate at the Magpie Restaurant in historic St. Charles. The lady at the St. Charles Visitors Center didn’t steer us wrong on either restaurant selection. As a matter of fact, we saw her at the Magpie. She even recognized us after we cleaned up and looked human again.
Our day was complete when we found the Main Street Bookstore with a friendly owner and some really great books.
“Superlatives of Trip” Answers
Where was your most favorite place to stay?
Jack’s vote went to Birk’s Gasthaus in Hermann.
Rebecca liked the River Witch Cabin in Augusta, and I sided with her vote.
Jane chose Cliff Manor in Jefferson City.
What was your favorite food?
Jack, Rebecca and I all chose The Vintage Restaurant in Hermann. Long live the Germans, their food and wine.
Jane, on the other hand, went Celtic on us and chose Paddy Malone’s in Jefferson City. She loved the atmosphere.
None of us chose trail mix!
What was the thing that surprised you most about the Katy?
Jack and Rebecca both marveled at the diversity of “flora and fauna” (Jack’s words). They had not expected to see so much wildlife and primitive areas.
Jane said that she was surprised by the management and maintenance of the trail. “It is in excellent riding condition,” was her response.
I was surprised at how much I really like the western part of the trail. Much is written about the more spectacular parts that I had already ridden, but the area around Sedalia is great.
But the thing that surprised me most is that I can’t simply cross “doing the Katy” off my “bucket list” and move on. I definitely want to do it again and maybe again. The beauty of the trail, the power of the Missouri River, the sculpted limestone bluffs and the importance of the history of the Trail can’t help but impress the Katy Trail traveler. Mix impressive scenery with great traveling companions, the hospitality of Missouri folks and the fellowship of other cyclists from all over the country, and the recipe is one that requires repeating.
And hopefully, we will.
In Tebbetts, the folks at the post office are very friendly. I peeked in the bike hostel there while Rebecca mailed some postcards. The hostel was locked, but I’ve read several reports on the Katy Trail website that indicate it is a good stop if riders need a free place to stay and are packing their own sleeping stuff.
Mokane MM 125 has restrooms but no water at the trail head, although the store may be open. If you have your fishing pole, you can access the river just west of Mokane where my dad and I used to launch his boat to try our luck with Missouri River catfish.
Steedman MM 121 does not have a trailhead.
But at MM 120, riders always stop for Standing Rock. The cliffs are very high here, probably 200 feet, but the rock did not fall from the cliff. This part of the rock is resistant to the erosive efforts of water and wind. And because of that, there are high water marks on the rock from 1912, 1935, 1943, 1944, and 1993.
Portland MM 116 was our lunch stop for the day. We were all hungry and didn’t want to eat trail mix again for lunch. The Riverfront Bar and Grill, which is visible from the trail, is the local place for lunch and a game of pool. It’s been underwater several times, so there’s not a square corner or straight line in the building, and its pretty dark inside, but they sure serve a mean tenderloin sandwich. When we arrived, the Sierra Club tour which consisted of 13 riders and a tour guide were just finishing. Because the owner was busy with the grill, the Sierra Club group leader, Paul Minkus, took our order. Bicyclists share a fair amount of brother and sisterhood, but the trail creates an ever stronger sense of camaraderie which is probably the reason it is so much fun.
If you managed to make your way through the first Katy Trail post….wait….there’s more!
But first…important announcements! Glen Woods reports on his and his daughter Cheyenne’s participation in the Route 66 Olumpic Tri. Congrats to them both and good luck on the June 15th tri in Tulsa.
“Cheyenne and I race the Route 66 sprint tri on Saturday and the Route 66 Olympic on Sunday in El Reno, OK this weekend. I won the over 40 Clydesdale both days ( I also call it the old fat man award). Cheyenne placed second in the 15-19 age group on Saturday and 3rd in the 15-19 on Sunday. She set an Olympic PR and I set both Olympic and sprint PRs this weekend. We never got a drop of rain. The weather was great except for the 30 MPH south wind that wreaked havoc on the swim Saturday and just about blew me over because of my race wheels on the bike.”
“Remember the Tulsa Tri is June 15th.”
Thanks for that reminder Glen!
Okay…here’s the second installment.
Monday, May 19
Day 2 Start: Sedalia MM 227 48 Miles on the Katy Trail Map
End: Rocheport MM 179 51.4 Actual Miles logged
The continental breakfast at Hotel Bothwell was adequate, and we were on the road at 9 a.m. closely following the Warrensburg group. Jack, Rebecca and Jane went by the depot and got on the trail, and I chose the shortcut (the route we took when we got lost the previous evening, and the Warrensburg group followed me…silly people). But it did turn out to be a short cut!
The trail northeast of Sedalia dodges in and out of tree lanes, prairie pastures and fields. As a consequence, we saw a considerable amount of birds. Indigo buntings and cardinals are probably the most plentiful birds on the trail.
The buntings are shy, but they will pace a rider on the trail. We also saw Baltimore orioles, red winged blackbirds, turkey vultures, several kinds of woodpeckers, and of course, robins and swallows. The best sighting was a scarlet tanager. Phlox, asters, daisies, and columbine skirt the trail.
Clifton City MM 215.4 is located 13.6 miles east of Sedalia. I made it there with a strong tailwind in 45 minutes. It was a great, brisk morning ride that really got the blood flowing. There is a trailhead here, and there are restrooms, but there is no water. It was not hot when we rode, but it would be easy to exhaust several water bottles in a short time on a hot day. Planning your water stops is important so you don’t get in a bind.
We enjoyed the Clifton City trailhead stop with one of our new friends from Warrnesburg. The trailheads all have complete information about what to expect on the next section of trail regardless of which direction a rider is headed. They also include local history of the area which you can see on the “depot” walls behind us.
The trailheads and rest stops are close enough that even riders in big groups can ride at their own comfortable pace and still meet up with their fellow riders within minutes at a trailhead or rest area. This method of travel is very enjoyable because each rider has some time for experiencing the trail in what appears to be isolation. And as we all know, thinking time on a bike is good for the soul. Help is usually a cell phone call away if necessary, and coverage is fairly reliable along the trail. In areas with tall bluffs, it can be spotty. Emergency numbers are available at all trailheads and bikers should be aware and note the numbers.
The trail often takes the rider through blasted rock cuts created by the railroad to help flatten the rail bed. When entering these areas, the air is always cooler which feels great on a hot day. Jane is going over the bridge in the distance past this cut. This is a small one east of Clifton City, but steeper, more dramatic ones are closer to Boonville near Lard Hill. The story on Lard Hill is that in earlier days a Katy train hit some hogs that were on the tracks. The hog farmer, an older, persistent woman, demanded that the railroad reimburse her for the dead hogs. The Katy officials refused, stating that she should keep her hogs off the tracks. She got even by instructing her sons to grease the tracks with lard.
Often the trail traveler finds remnants of railroad days past. Here’s a signal left to remind bikers of the original use of the trail. We also saw railroad ties, concrete bases for other types of rail structures, and of course, bridges and cabooses that have been reconditioned for display.
Stopping on bridges offers surprising and lovely rewards, like this little creek.
The Katy intersects several blacktop highways, farm-to-market roads, gravel roads, private driveways and farm access roads. Each of these crossings are marked for the safety of all.
Larger, busier roads are either crossed with underpasses or overpasses, or by large whistle tunnels like this one. Like the big kids we are, we all tried “tooting” our vocal train horns when we rode through these echo chambers.
Our lunch spot this day a great find. We knew the Warrensburg group was ahead of us so we looked for their bikes when we got to Pilot Grove, MM 203. There they were at Becky’s Burgers and Cones.
This was a terrific stop. It’s a family-owned, small town restaurant just a block north of the trail. The locals appear to love this place. We even met the mayor picking up his lunch. He was very friendly and thanked us for stopping at Pilot Grove. Most of Pilot Grove was dining inside, but Becky has wisely placed picnic tables outside on a lovely outside front porch for the more fragrant biker types. I had the daily special, served on a blue plate which included that wilted lettuce I had been dreaming about at Camp Branch. The greens were fresh out of the restaurant owner’s garden that morning. Take that Chez Panisse! And to top it off, Rebecca and I had a piece of the strawberry ice cream pie.
Jane was the taste tester to be sure it was a quality product.
We all decided that a weight loss program is not compatible with riding the Katy Trail. The food is just too darn good. We had many good meals on the trail, but several days we opted to have a “lunch” of trail mix, fruit or other energy snacks. Eating a big meal at lunch and then cycling can be hard on the digestive track. Plus we were able to justify those glorious dinners we consumed at the end of every day. At the end of our journey, we also all agreed that we didn’t really want to see anything that looked like trail mix for awhile.
It also takes more energy to pedal a fully loaded bike. We all had to get used to juggling items around in our bags to properly balance the bike, and even then, it took some getting used to riding a bike with the extra pounds attached. I would really recommend a “practice run” with a fully loaded bike before beginning a long trek anywhere.
Before we left Pilot Grove, we met one contingency of the Elderhostel group, which consisted of 23 riders and two tour guides, who were also on the trail. Tour operators and organized group rides are fairly common on the trail during the less hot months of May and June and September. It’s fun to visit with these folks both on and off the trail. The Elderhostel group would come to our rescue two days later.
The Katy overpass on Interstate 70 west of Boonville makes for an interesting stop. Jane grabbed my camera and held me ransom on the bridge with the Boonville water tower in the far background.
The Katy passes over I-70 here, under I-70 near Rocheport and again under I-70 at St. Charles.
Bikers can take a bathroom break at Prairie Lick MM 197, but there is no water at this stop.
A substantial grade takes riders the final five miles into Boonville. After continuous pedaling for two days, we were all surprised that we coasted for almost two miles as we entered town. The local walkers and joggers seem to like to go uphill and west from the Boonville trailhead. We met a walker at the trailhead who had moved to Boonville from Texas six months previously with her husband to be close to the trail. She says they love it there.
Boonville MM 192 is a fun, historic river town with many structures on the National Register of Historic Places and exploration possibilities. The Chamber of Commerce and a MKT caboose are right on the trail. If you have loose change, stop at the Isle of Capri Casino that is conveniently located on the trail, and their slot machines will be happy to take your donations. The trail takes you directly to the downtown business district.
The Warrensburg group stayed at the Frederick Hotel which is located at the north end of the bridge on the east side of Main Street. It has recently been restored and they said it was very reasonable, the rooms were comfy and the complementary breakfast was excellent. Most accommodations along the trail are happy to secure your bikes at night, and The Frederick is no exception.
Riders cross from the south side to the north side of the Missouri River on a special bike/pedestrian lane on the Missouri State Highway 5 bridge.
Jane crosses the Missouri River at Boonville.
Franklin MM 187 and New Franklin MM 188 are the next stops on the Katy. Interpretive areas are located all along the trail. Franklin was important to Lewis & Clark on their Corp of Discovery. Since the Corp of Discovery Bicentennial in 2004, much has been added to the Katy Trail to make it much for meaningful for trail users. New Franklin housed the roundhouse for the Katy. The foundation and some of the structure are still apparent to the rider who stops to take a look. New Franklin was also part of the Santa Fe Trail and the Boonslick trail. And of course, it is the birthplace of “Jelly” Settles, who wrote “The Missouri Waltz,” a favorite of all Missourians and definitely Mizzou Fans.
One of the most photographed structures on the trail is the famous Rocheport tunnel, which was built in 1893. It was featured in a Stephen King movie, Sometimes They Come Back. It is the longest tunnel on the trail and really fun to ride through.
Jane exits on the east side of the Rocheport Tunnel.
Immediately after exiting the tunnel, bikers ride over the Moniteau Creek bridge. The Moniteau bluffs and the Creek are described in detail in the journals of the Corp of Discovery. Here they found “several curious paintings and carvings in the projecting rock of limestone inlaid with white and red and blue flint,” evidence of the sacred nature of the area to the early Native Americans. Petroglyphs can be found in several places along the trail.
Rocheport MM 179 is a delightfully restored river town and has been partially inundated several times but continues to thrive. Several great B&Bs provide top drawer accommodations. And the Trailside Café offers bikers necessary equipment, repairs, air and food. As it was near the end of the school year, some Callaway County school students had a day on the trail, renting bikes and enjoying the scenery the day. This is the busiest part of the trail.
We stayed with Mike and Lisa Friedemann, who moved to Rocheport in 2002 from Tulsa when they purchased The Schoolhouse Inn. In 1912, it was a four-room schoolhouse. Today, it is a wonderfully restored 10-room B&B that has been voted “Best Missouri B&B” for four years running. They also have a facility called the Dormitory for bikers who want a comfy place to stay but don’t require the B&B frills. Our bikes spent the night in a secured bike storage area, we slept like logs and enjoyed a wonderful breakfast before our next day.
For dinner in Rocheport, I did manage to get everyone back on the bikes to head up a hill to visit Le Bourgeois Bistro and Winery. The Bistro, which is an excellent moderately priced restaurant, is closed on Monday, but the Winegarten was open. We had delicious panini sandwiches, terrific wine, entertaining stories from Jack, and an unbelievable view of the Missouri River valley high atop the north bluff. We really didn’t want to leave, but the sun was setting and we still had to coast down the hill. A very nice young couple from Nebraska took this photo for us.
Tuesday, May 20
Day 3 Start: Rocheport MM 179 36 Miles on the Katy Map End: North Jefferson MM 143 39.3 Actual Miles logged
We began our day with a great breakfast of baked omelettes and fresh fruit, homemade muffins at The Schoolhouse Inn. After purchasing some provisions at the Trailside Café and Bike shop and airing up tires, we started out on what most riders believe is the most beautiful part of the trail. Likewise, it receives the most use, so you can always expect company. The railroad was constructed close to the river in this stretch and right next to the high bluffs, so the views can be stunning. Lots of benches along the way invite walkers and bikers to sit, relax and enjoy the view of the Mighty Mo. There’s also lots to stop and see on this stretch of the trail, so expect to make a few stops and detours. I took my time, took some photos and had a great day.
Rebecca enjoyed the view outside of Rocheport.
At MM 174.4, we saw some petroglyphs and a cave with a spring where Lewis and Clark camped on their way up the river.
Huntsdale MM 171.7 has no water or restrooms but is a cute little settlement.
Just west of McBaine, before crossing over the Perche Creek bridge, the MKT Fitness Trail takes off to the north toward Columbia. The trail intersection is marketed by the typical Katy Trail depot rest stop. This eight-mile trail takes riders to downtown Columbia and the University of Missouri Campus. It’s a great trail, and many bikers choose to stay in Columbia and visit before heading further on the trail.
A short 2.2 miles east is McBaine MM 169, where taking a short side route to the right (south) of the trail leads riders to the Champion Great Burr Oak. Arborists believe it is at least 350 years old. It’s amazing to see a tree that was present long before Lewis and Clark came up the river.
Because the water and the bluffs present great habitat for all sorts of animals, riders are liable to see just about anything. Jane almost hit a wayward squirrel on this portion of the trail. The next day she saw a river otter. Swallows were swarming a big nesting site near the I-70 underpass near Rocheport.
And Rebecca and I found this critter. Sure looks like a copperhead to me. We quietly moved around it and respected its space. We saw five snakes on the entire trail, but they can be more are numerous, seeking either sunny spots on cool days or shade on hot days. Riders should always look ahead for sticks that may be snakes. Rebecca accidently thought a black snake was a stick. Oops….she didn’t mean to run over it.
Roche Perche MM 166.9 (Pierced Rock) was mentioned by earlier explorers and Lewis and Clark. This natural bridge is located high on the bluff, but an interpretive marker helps point it out for riders and hikers. It is difficult to photograph.
Providence MM 165 has no water available. Another fun little river settlement, though.
Easley MM 162 offers the Easley Store and nearby BoatHenge. It is tucked behind a fence on the left of the trail before crossing the Little Bonne Femme Creek bridge. I coaxed Jack and Rebecca to join the flamingo for a photo.
I stopped to talk to two women from Nebraska on the bridge and take their picture. They were enjoying a “girls away biking vacation.” Turns out one of them knew Roger’s cousin who lives in Lincoln. Small world!
Wilton MM 157.4 has a store, but every time I go by, it looks closed. The sign outside says “Stay in a tipi.” Sounds like fun, but I didn’t see any.
Our plan was to eat lunch in Hartsburg MM 153.6. But Dotty’s Café, a Hartsburg favorite, is closed on Monday and Tuesday, as was the Summit Hill Winery. Rather than succumbing to a great depression over the fact that the winery was closed, we borrowed the picnic tables in front of Dotty’s and downed some trail mix, bananas, water and called it good. We vowed to make up for the trail mix luncheon at dinner. The trailhead at Hartsburg has both water and restrooms.
I was dawdling and taking pictures east of Hartsburg when I saw Jack coming toward me. He had left quickly from Hartsburg and I was surprised to see him backtracking. But he was returning for a very important reason. He had forgotten his “chamois butter” on the bench at the rest stop. And that is something you just can’t leave behind (pardon the pun).
The rest of the trail from Rocheport on to St. Charles is very flat with very little grade. Constant pedaling is required, but it is easy pedaling. Occasionally, bikers have to pedal over one of the earthen river dikes used to try to control floodwaters. The dikes provide a nice break and at least 20 yards of coasting.
Claysville MM 149.8 supposedly has a store that is open on the weekends. We didn’t see any signs of life when we through.
North Jefferson MM 143.2 is a short 6.6 miles from Claysville. The North Jefferson trailhead has restrooms, water and a very sizeable parking area that is used by locals to access the trail.
It also has a very nice “depot” with restrooms and water where we rested while waiting for our shuttle.
The closest accommodations on the north side of the river are in Holts Summit, up a big hill. So we chose to stay at the Cliff Manor B&B which is located just blocks from the Capitol in Jefferson City right on the river. To get to Jefferson City from the trail, one has to cross the Missouri River Highway 54 bridge. Riding across the Missouri River bridge on Highway 54 is, in my opinion, NOT an option. This bridge experiences heavy traffic, and I wouldn’t risk getting thrown off the bridge or getting hit. A bike lane does exist on the northbound lane, which means if you ride it into Jefferson City, you are facing the 65 mph traffic traveling only a few feet away. Our B&B provides shuttle service for riders who stay there. I’ve heard that a cab company will also provide shuttle service to Jefferson City hotels.
The accommodations were really clean and pleasant…we had porches overlooking the river, Jacuzzis and a wonderful breakfast the next day. However, Rebecca’s “bed” was a foldout that really shouldn’t have qualified for a bed. Our host, Thom, did wash, fill and freeze our water bottles so that we had cold drinks the next day, and he secured our bikes for us that night. Both gestures were most appreciated.
For dinner, we were in luck. Paddy Malone’s is right around the corner. Established in 1870, it’s a Jeff City icon and the oldest continuous business in Jeff. We replenished our precious bodily fluids in the typical Irish manner and enjoyed typical Irish fare. Jack commented on the bonnie lass who served as our waitress. Jane, Rebecca and I preferred Paddy’s dog who is the pub’s official mascot. We highly recommend some fish and chips or bangers and mash at Paddy’s. And, of course, the Guinness wasn’t bad either!
After dinner Rebecca and I walked three blocks to the State Capitol. Although the Capitol was closed, it contains the State Historical Museum and famous Thomas Hart Benton murals. The Veteran’s Memorial is located on the river side of the Capitol grounds and is quite nice. St. Peters is located west of the Capitol and provides a nice red brick contrast to the white limestone of the Capitol. And since we were riding the Katy Trail, we went down to Rotary Centennial Park on Bolivar Street where the first bridge that crossed the Missouri at Jefferson City was located. It’s the best place in town to watch the trains. This is a very nice, small park and several people were enjoying the evening as well.
In a self-supported ride, doing laundry is inevitable. A rider can only wear bike shorts so long before life becomes intolerable for the rider and for the riding partners. Our lodging provided some great places to hang clothes after we did some sink laundry. Rebecca strung together several bungee cords and made a great clothesline. The only injury Jane suffered during the trip was banging her shin against the corner of the Jacuzzi while attempting to find a drying spot for her jersey.
Stay tuned for Wednesday’s and Thursday’s adventures……
For those of us who managed to tough out the Tulsa Tough this weekend, we all get awards. Saturday’s ride was great….Sunday….well, we got all that Oklahoma can offer in the way of summer weather. Hail, torrential rains which caused road flooding and tree damaging winds made for some interesting riding. However, Jim Beach and his SAG teams did a great job keeping riders safe in really tough weather conditions. The races were fun to watch, and we all ended up with an experience to tell.
Here’s the first installment of several of our Katy Trail Report. Four of us rode May 18 to 23rd. We had a great time and would like everyone to consider a trip on the Katy. Hopefully the upcoming blog entries will help convince you of the fun that awaits. I’m breaking it up into segments…so read what you like. The first entry is about the Trail in general and the first day. Stay tuned for a day-by-day description and photos.
Katy Trail 2008 Spring Bike Tour
The Katy Trail is the longest rails-to-trails project in the United States. In 1986, the Missouri-Kansas-Texas (MK&T) Railroad no longer operated the rail line that had serviced four states for more than 100 years. The Missouri Department of Natural Resources, with the help and hard work of many trail advocates, secured the right-of-way. The construction of the recreational biking and hiking trail began. Because the trail follows the Missouri River closely for more than half its distance, the flood of 1993 damaged much of the trail. But in 1999, the trail was complete from its western terminus in Clinton to the eastern end in St. Charles. The Katy Trail provides 225 miles of uninterrupted primitive, yet pastoral biker/hiker friendly trail. And, expansions efforts are underway on both east and west ends of the trail in the hope that some day, the trail will span the entire width of the state of Missouri, starting at the Mississippi River on the east and ending at the Missouri in Kansas City.
I’ve dreamed of riding the Katy Trail from start to finish since it was completed in 1999. My good friend Jane and two of her family members became the best travel companions one could ask for on this journey. What follows is a description and some photos of our trek to help stimulate your interest in this wonderful trail, and hopefully help you plan your adventure. We were prepared for the best and worst, got a little of both, but in the process, we met some of the nicest people and experienced all that is great about small town America. And we spent six days doing something we love to do…ride bikes.
Mark Twain wrote about seeking adventure in an essay called “Taming the Bicycle.” As he was learning how to ride a “high wheel machine,” he wrote of his riding teacher:
“Then he left me, and I started out alone to seek adventures. You don’t really have to seek them — that is nothing but a phrase — they come to you.”
And find adventure…we did!
From left to right: Rebecca, Jane, Jack and Leann at the beginning of our adventure at the Clinton trailhead
Our group of four consisted of Dr. Jack Standifer of Tuscon, the experienced biker among us, almost 80-years young, who has ridden RAGBRAI twice, Tour de Tuscon Century and spent enough time in the saddle to earn the respect of all of us. His daughter Rebecca, a computer systems analyst, also from Tuscon, admitted that her longest distance training for the ride was approximately 30 miles. She commutes to work several days a week 25 miles total per trip. Dr. Jane Johansson, Rogers State University history professor from Pryor, OK, has been pleasure riding for several years and taken on tour distances in the local Dam J.A.M ride and the Sacred Heart ride in Shawnee. Rounding out the four is me, Leann Burger, a recently retired higher education type also from Pryor, but a Show-Me State native. Other than Jack, none of us had done an unsupported week-long tour. But having ridden two days on the Katy before with Pryorites Bob and Cathy Webster, “doing the Katy” was on the “bucket list.”
Our tour was self-contained. We carried our own stuff in bike trunks, panniers and handbar bags. We did not camp but rather elected to stay in historic hotels and B&Bs (we like warm water, soap and a comfy bed at the end of the day). However, we met at least two groups that were camping. We did not pack food, other than trail mix and other energy foods. With some planning, dining options are fairly easy to find and water is available on the trail at some trailheads or small stores and restaurants either on or close to the trail.
Our direction on the Katy was west to east which is the common way for bikers to travel because prevailing winds are usually from the west (although we had two days of east wind during and after a rain-filled front passed on the last two days). The two larger tour-led groups and other smaller groups we met were also traveling west to east.
For a complete map of the Katy, use this link.
http://www.bikekatytrail.com/maps.asp
To chart our mileage, I used a Garmin GPS and the others used standard bike computers. I also checked our moving averages and elevation changes, although the trail is well marked with mileage markers and informational material regarding the small “hills” or grades at the trailheads. The mileage markers on the trail are consistent with those used on the original Katy Railroad. Our mileage may be different than the trail mileage due to travel from trailheads to accommodations, a few side trips and becoming “termporarily disoriented” off the trail.
We biked six days on the trail which seems to be the standard among folks who are not in a hurry to bike the entire trail. We usually left our accommodations between 8:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m. each day depending on how far we had to go and the extent of the wonderful breakfasts at the B&B. Our shortest day was 29 miles and our longest was 51. We arrived at our destinations anywhere between 2 and 5 p.m. With a tailwind we made very good time on the fine ground gravel limestone surface, averaging 10 mph on fat tire bikes. On our one day of rain, the trail became very soggy, sticky and slowed our pace significantly. One group we met only traveled 20 miles per day and took 11 days to make the trip.
Sunday, May 18
Day 1 Start: Clinton MM 264.6 37.6 Miles on the Katy
End: Sedalia MM 227 40.3 Actual Miles logged
Roger was our drop off, pick up person. He was very kind to do this for us. Otherwise we’d probably still be trying to hitch a ride. He dropped us off at the trailhead in Clinton located near the Wagoner Sports Complex just off Highway 52 on the northeast edge of town, and we started our journey shortly around noon.
Jack got off to an interesting start by heading toward Clinton on the paved recreation path instead of away from Clinton. We managed to gain his attention, so we all got headed the correct way. And we found a geocache at the Clinton trailhead before setting up our gear on the bikes. It’s hard to miss the MKT caboose which helps mark the trailhead.
The Katy heads northeasterly toward Calhoun which is approximately ten miles away. It runs in and out of trees and takes trail riders through prairie, corn and bean fields, and grazing cattle as it parallels the Highway 52. Farmers were very busy in the fields, either plowing and planting or applying herbicide. The ride was very pleasant with wonderful temperatures and a strong westerly wind. Admittedly, I was really excited about getting started, and the beginning of the ride was a bit of a blur until I got a rhythm.
Jane and Rebecca cross Sand Creek between Clinton and Calhoun. More than 100 bridges provide crossings of creeks and rivers for trail users and this is an example of a bridge that incorporates the original Katy railroad structure. Rebecca tried to record the sound that the boards on the bridge make when a bicycle crosses. It’s pretty cool!
Calhoun MM 255.5 is called Jug Town because of the clay deposits in this area and the pottery factories that existed long ago. Not much left here, but restrooms and water are located at the trailhead.
Windsor MM 248 is where the first Confederate flag was raised in Missouri. So we had to have the historian in the photo.
The Spirit of ’76 Caboose at Windsor is located at the trailhead. When the Katy discontinued the use of cabooses in the 70s, they were given to communities along the railroad. Windsor thought it had caboose #130, as that was the number painted on the green caboose, but when they sandblasted it, they discovered they had Caboose #76 and is has been reconditioned and decorated to celebrate the nation’s Bicentennial. Casey’s General Store is located near the trailhead for those requiring provisions.
Although the trail is relatively flat by road biking standards, it does have “grades.” Most of those grades occur on the western part of the trail. One of the interesting things we all noted was that we could instantly tell when we began going up a grade even though the trail looked pancake-flat. Likewise, we coasted down grades when we expected to pedal. This was a really fascinating phenomenon as our eyes were saying “this is flat” to our brains, but the bike and the level of exertion required were saying something else. We especially noted this where the trail is lined on both sides by trees. The lack of a horizon line disorients the biker a bit. Like all bikers, we really relish those “wind behind your back, downgrade” experiences, but when we did reach the really flat parts after Rocheport, we longed for a “grade” or two to break up the monotony. It was amazing that we all tended to complain about the “hills.” However, if we encountered the same climb out road riding, we wouldn’t even notice it.
The highest part of the trail is marked in the prairie between Windsor and Sedalia…near a remnant of a siding named Bryson.
Rebecca and Jane stopped on the “grade” near the highest point sign.
Green Ridge MM 239 is the last trailhead before Sedalia. However, we noticed as we passed by a group of houses at Camp Branch, MM 236, that several of the locals were enjoying the late afternoon in their backyard swing with their iced tea. One couple waived enthusiastically as we rode past and we returned the gesture. I was eyeballing their very tidy vegetable garden, and remembering how good my grandma’s garden wilted lettuce tasted.
The honey locusts were in full bloom and very fragrant for most of the trip as were honeysuckle and other bloomers. Too much of a good thing sometimes made us sneeze, but the most allergy-prone among us commented that she had less problems on the trip than she does at home.
Entering Sedalia, on the southwest side, we passed The Missouri State Fair Grounds, where the annual state fair is held every August. If you are interested in railroading, you might check out the 1947 Merci Train car and Frisco Locomotive “Old Smokie.” We didn’t stop because our legs were rebelling at this point.
When the Trail finds its way to Sedalia, it runs diagonally through town. I got lost trying to find the hotel. Jack and Rebecca were ahead, and so as I was leading Jane astray I tacked on another three miles to the trip that day. From the moaning and groaning that occurred that night, I think that Jane could have strangled me with a bungie cord at that point.
But before we found our hotel, we did manage to stop at the Katy Sedalia Depot MM 227 which houses the Railroad Heritage Museum. It is closed on Sunday, so we only got to peek in the windows. It is a beautiful old depot and worthy of a stop. It was built in 1896 and is now on the National Register of Historic Places as are more than 20 structures in Sedalia.
The Sedalia Library
Historic Downtown includes 106-108 E. Main where Scott Joplin played upstairs in the 400 Club, and the Scott Joplin Mural at 205 S. Ohio Ave. The architecture styles include a real mix, Victorian, Classic Greek Revival, Romanesque Revival and Art Deco. The Sedalia Chamber of Commerce has a great self-guided walking tour brochure.
One of the buildings I definitely wanted to see is the Sedalia Carnegie Library. It is two blocks from the Courthouse and our hotel. The Sedalia Heritage Website describes it this way: “This impressive terra cotta and Carthage stone building is the Sedalia Public Library. It is Missouri’s first library west of the Mississippi to be built on a grant from the Andrew Carnegie Foundation. This Renaissance Revival building features a classical entry with its stately columns clearly resembling a Roman temple. The interior of this classic style structure is resplendent with marble and glass floors, open fireplaces and oak woodwork.” The library was dedicated in 1901. I didn’t get to go in because it was closed on Sunday evening. Three noteworthy churches are within two blocks of the library if you like diverse architecture or you are Catholic, Methodist or Episcopalian.
According to the Sedalia Heritage Website, the Hotel Bothwell where we stayed is Sedalia’s tallest and was constructed during the years, 1925-27 by developer, philanthropist, John Homer Bothwell. “Named to the National Register of Historic Places, the hotel is an example of Classic Revival Architecture. Some of the Hotel’s more famous visitors have been Harry Truman, Bette Davis and Clint Eastwood.” The hotel was very comfortable. We secured our bikes in the basement and went out in search of food.
The last thing one wants to do at the end of the day on the trail is get back on the bike in search of food. So we walked three blocks north on Ohio to Broadway and found a Sedalia institution…Eddie’s Drive-in. We had just missed about forty bikers (of the motorcycle persuasion) according to our kind waitress. The roast beef dinners, burgers and Guberburgers were very good. A Guberburger is a hamburger with peanut butter. Sounds strange, but I had to try it…Rebecca had a bite and we agreed that it really is good.
Because Jack had found the surface of the Katy Trail with his leg earlier in the day when he took a spill, we all determined that large bandages might be in order. He needed to cover up those fresh scabs! The grocery store, Woods, across the street from Eddie’s fit the bill. They had everything we needed including trail mix, the next day’s Gatorade, Aleve and Thera-Gesic. Jane sported that lovely hint of wintergreen for the next several days, but she says it did the trick. She did get a little under her bike shorts. She reported a warmer than normal sensation.
We met five couples from Warrensburg that evening in the hotel lobby. They were also riding the Katy to St. Charles. We shared stories, trailhead rest stops and the Katy experience for the next six days.
